Caresheet

The following document is meant to highlight some of the more important aspects of care for the named species. It is not meant to be a complete guide. There is a great deal of information that is more inclusive and is easily accessible regarding the care of almost any reptile species available on the market. It is hoped that the following notes will motivate the reader to conduct further research whether via the Internet, public and university libraries, or by consulting breeders, zoo personnel, or other appropriate experts. Email questions or comments for the purpose of discussing these or similar issues are always welcomed.

Rosy Boas

(Lichanura trivirgata sp.)

One of the smaller species of the boa family, the Rosy Boa originates from the dry, warm regions of the Southwest United States, Baja, Mexico, and some areas of mainland Mexico. They are mainly desert dwelling snakes that spend most of their time deep within rocky crevices and other underground dwellings where temperature gradients are more stable and suitable for their delicate digestive process, development of their young, and, during the winter months, brumation. Being largely nocturnal and crepuscular at certain times, they surface at night during spring and summer months to hunt and seek out mates. Early in spring they can be found during the day, but usually beneath sun-warmed rocks or in more superficial crevices where they can easily self-regulate their body temperature. Understanding these factors aids in proper housing, feeding, and breeding of this fascinating small boa.

The Rosy Boa is an excellent first snake for beginners and children because it is small, slow, attractive in coloration, and well tempered. It is also an excellent addition to a well-established collection for its ease of care and its unique, alluring qualities. While the following paragraphs may seem intimidating to the beginning snake keeper, the reader should keep in mind that Rosy Boas are very easy to keep and do very well in captivity as long as a few rules are followed.

In terms of housing, the cage type is less important than the internal environment. Of critical importance is the often-mentioned temperature gradient. Of equal importance is the method of warming. Both of these factors are crucial for digestion, reproduction, and health. A temperature gradient should range from the low to mid-70's to the low to mid-80's on the warm side of the cage and should be provided by undertank heating. Rosy boas need belly heat for their often-temperamental digestive system. Heating by a light source is not necessary, and some people feel this predisposes to more rapid dehydration or burns and does not provide an appropriate environment. An improper gradient or lack of belly warmth can predispose Rosy Boas to health problems, most notably problems with regurgitation.

Also, noting their geographic range, Rosy Boas need a less humid enclosure. Usually this means offering water for only short periods of time. A high relative humidity can lead to skin infections as well as regurgitation problems over the long run. Both temperature and humidity can be, and should be, easily monitored on a regular basis. It is amazing how many pet stores and literature sources fail to address these issues.

Also under the topic of housing are the issues of cage size, decorations, and bedding. Since Rosy Boas remain relatively small compared to other boa species a ten to twenty gallon tank, or the equivalent, can be considered adequate for the lifetime of the snake. If the cage is not in a rack system it should include a hiding enclosure that is not situated directly over the warm end of the cage as temperatures might rise too high within the hide box. Decorative rocks or branches are fine if routinely cleaned as long as this ground dwelling boa has enough floor space to roam. These accessories can also help in terms of shedding by providing a source of friction. Always remember, especially for young snakes, to ensure that any heavy decorations are in full contact with the floor of the cage to prevent entrapment should the snake burrow under. For bedding it is important to avoid cedar-based materials (toxic) and other types that are high in dust content (pine shavings) which can lead to respiratory problems. We use aspen shavings, but shredded newspaper or other commercially available products work as well. Rosy Boas tend to burrow so whatever is used for bedding should account for this as well. Frequent spot cleaning is required to maintain a healthy environment and is preferred over lengthy time periods between cleaning. One final note regarding the cage environment is that the enclosure should be located in a more quiet, less traveled area of the home and should not be situated near appliances that can generate excessive vibration, sound, or heat. Such appliances may alter the cages thermal gradient and/or cause undo stress to the animal leading to potential health issues.

It should be noted that some Rosy Boa keepers experience feeding problems with their snakes at some point, especially if trying to work with newborn or juvenile animals. It can manifest simply as a snake going "off feed" for a period of time or can become a more complicated issue of regurgitation, whether as a single or continuing event. Sometimes these snakes simply refuse to eat for a short time, possibly reflecting innate behaviors and physiological changes related to upcoming winter months or the breeding season. Usually this is not cause for concern as long as the animal does not lose significant weight or develop other health problems. There are many tricks to try with a boa who has gone off feed, but often time and patience are all that are needed. Periodic feedings should be attempted at night as this is when the Rosy Boa hunts. One can try leaving the prey item in the hide box over night, or place the snake in a separate container with the food being sure never to leave a live hopper/adult mouse with a snake unattended. The important point here is to watch for dehydration and keep track of weight loss prior to any invasive action (force feeding, tube feeding, medications). If such invasive action is attempted it should ONLY be done in consult with someone experienced in these procedures.

As mentioned, some Rosy Boas seem prone to regurgitation if there are any underlying illnesses, excessive stress, or if husbandry techniques are not up to par. If a boa regurgitates, we suggest holding back food AND water for a period of time (we use 5 days initially), ensuring a proper cage environment, reducing the high end temperature to a maximum of 80F, then attempting to feed very small prey items (even pinkie mice for an adult animal). The cage should be in a very quiet place with less room lighting and the snake should not be handled during this time. In the majority of cases this technique works well and eventually the prior feeding schedule can be resumed (again, record keeping serves well here). On occasion this does not solve the problem and the animal continues to regurgitate and lose weight. This may be due to overaggressive attempts to get the boa to feed, undiagnosed illness, or as some have suggested, a "regurgitation syndrome" with continued symptoms and no apparent underlying illness. Whatever the reason, this would be the time for less experienced keepers (or those without access to diagnostic tools and appropriate drugs) to consult a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles. Some have suggested an artificial cooling/brumation period to "rest" the boa and attempt feeding upon rewarming. We do not recommend this, as it is never appropriate to overwinter an ill boa in captivity. It cannot be stressed enough that careful attention to cage environment and the monitoring of temperature, humidity, feeding, shedding, and weight, will allow for the best chances of success and aid in problem solving by the keeper or veterinarian if needed.

In nature all Rosy Boas undergo a cooling period during winter. They have adapted this behavior to deal with times of scarce food populations and to "reset" their biological and reproductive clocks. Although these boas can thrive well in captivity without a winter cooling, common sense would dictate that overwintering is needed for optimum health and longevity. Therefore we recommend that all Rosy Boas be brumated accept obviously ill or undernourished animals and those which the keeper wishes to grow a bit faster in their first year. This is not a steadfast rule, just our suggestion. In order to overwinter a Rosy Boa, we recommend moderately increasing the feedings in the months leading up to November. Obviously this feeding schedule will depend on the snakes prior feeding history, current behavior, size and weight, and health status. In early November the feeding should be stopped and the snake should be maintained on its normal thermal gradient to digest the last meal. This time is generally referred to as "clearing the gut." It is vital to monitor stool passage and ensure that the snake clears out all food and fecal material prior to brumation. Failure to do this can lead to gut infection during winter and serious illness or death. Most people recommend 2-3 weeks for this process. While we agree with this range, we feel it is equally important to note actual passage of stool. After this gut clearing period, we usually offer water generously as this stimulates gut motility and can further stimulate stool passage and hydrate the boa for the first 1/3 of winter. After this step the temperature in the cage should be gradually reduced. Many schedules have been proposed for this, and we usually try to reduce the temperature by 5F every other day until a goal of 55F is reached (we consider a range of 55-65F adequate for brumation). The brumation conditions should have been studied prior to this to ensure there will not be any unexpected temperature drops below 50F. We place water bowls in the cage during winter for one day every 10-14 days and overwinter our boas for approximately 10-12 weeks. Upon rewarming, we increase the temperatures again by 5F per day until a normal gradient is achieved. During rewarming we recommend keeping the environmental stress (light, noise, vibration, etc.) to a minimum to allow the snake to "wake up peacefully to the joys of spring."

California Kingsnakes

(Lampropeltis getulus californiae)

Kingsnakes are among the more popular "starter snakes" and are easily kept in captivity. A hardy, active and relatively docile snake, the California Kingsnake is quite variable in nature in terms of coloration, pattern, range, and habitat. They can be ravenous eaters and are known to be cannibalistic...they will eat other snakes including their own kind, a fact that must be considered in housing and feeding technique. Care is easy as long as attention to detail, health status, and record keeping is maintained.

No special lighting is needed for this species. Often a pet store will try to sell a buyer special UV lighting equipment to "up the cost." This is not necessary. Many owners who maintain vivariums for show do desire lighting for aesthetics. Indeed the right lighting can significantly highlight the colors of the captive animal. If this is done it must be remembered that light bulbs used for warmth can lead to dehydration and burns, especially considering the fact that Kingsnakes are good climbers and can easily reach the light source in many cage types. This can be prevented with the crafty use of screen mesh to prevent the snake from contacting the bulb directly.

For heating, underground warmth should range from about 74F to no higher than 88F (preferable high range is 84-85F). As above, underbelly heat is the best option and allows for optimal digestion and temperature regulation. There are several commercially available undertank heat sources specifically made for reptile cages. These range from "stick-on" heat pads to various lengths of heat tape. Hot Rocks should never be used! They do not evenly distribute heat and cause burns. If a heat pad designed for humans is used (as is available at most pharmacies) care should be taken to prevent excessive weight from being placed on the cord, as they are not built for this purpose. Finally, temperature should always be monitored on the surface where the snake warms itself to ensure the above-mentioned gradient.

Kingsnakes tend to inhabit areas where standing water is more readily available. In captivity they can dehydrate quickly if water is not available as evidenced by loose, wrinkled, dry skin or difficult and patchy sheds. Even though these snakes derive much of their fluids from their food source, it is important to provide a constant clean water source. Some have said that a dehydrated Kingsnake can "drink itself to death" during rehydration if allowed to, but we don't know if this is true or not. Either way, keeping water available at all times prevents dehydration and allows the snake to soak during the shed cycle. If a snake happens to become dehydrated, it might be best to allow it to rehydrate slowly with small amounts of water over a few days.

In terms of feeding, Kingsnakes can ingest much larger prey items due to jaw anatomy than can a similar sized Rosy Boa. However, it is suggested that smaller food items offered more frequently are less stressful to the snake and promote a smoother growth curve. As for any snake being fed live mice, care must be taken to ensure the snake does not get bitten during feeding. A live mouse should never be left in a cage unwatched as this can lead to serious injury and death should the snake decline to eat and the mouse becomes bold and hungry. Also, if fed in their usual cages over time and with minimal amounts of handling some snakes can become conditioned to the fact that cage opening means feeding, resulting in an inevitable bite to the hand (potentially true with all snakes). This can be dealt with by feeding the snake in a separate container, then carefully transferring it back to the main cage to be left alone for a few days. Also remember that Kingsnakes in nature can and do feed on other snakes. Therefore, it is suggested that they never be housed together. If they are, it is mandatory to separate them prior to feeding and to keep them separate until the feeding response has subsided.

Other than ensuring an escape-proof cage, proper temperature gradients, providing a constant water source, and protecting against cannibalism amongst cagemates if two or more animals must be housed together, there is not much else to add regarding the care of Kingsnakes as they are quite easy to maintain.

California Mountain Kingsnakes

(Lampropeltis Zonata sp.)

Mountain Kingsnakes, or Zonatas, are one of the more prized animals in collections owing to their docile nature, beautiful tri-color banding, and a certain "Zonata mystique". Perhaps this latter issue arises from their secretive nature and the challenge involved with observing them in their natural habitat. Indeed, some of our most memorable and rigorous field trips have been those to see the Mountain Kingsnake in nature (please see Field Notes). Unfortunately, this intrigue has a bad side effect. Many less responsible reptile "hunters" make yearly pilgrimages to find Zonatas and regrettably leave their habitat in ruin by ripping away at the rock outcrops that these snakes inhabit. While it is important to encourage captive propagation, the vast majority of specimens should be photographed, perhaps measured and weighed, and then left undisturbed and their habitat should be left as it was found. This is relatively easy and in fact required by law.

Regarding care, Zonatas are easily kept similar to other colubrid snakes. With some exceptions, they inhabit higher elevations spending most of their time within the recesses of rock outcrops and the safety of fallen logs, often bordering the course of rivers. With this in mind, Zonatas can tolerate more moist and cool enclosures. Many keepers suggest a temperature gradient in the range of 65F to 82F, and some advocate the optional use of a container of moistened moss to offer a humidified hiding area or the occasional use of light misting. In general, cage requirements discussed for the California Kingsnake above apply here. Due to the secretive nature of this type of snake, a secure hiding place may be offered to reduce the stress on the animal. As with all animals that can burrow under cage bedding, any heavy hiding box, water bowl, branch, or rock decoration should be in full contact with the floor of the cage lest the animal attempt to burrow under it and become trapped (we have witnessed a friend lose a prized adult breeder bearded dragon this way).

When it comes to feeding, young Zonatas can be a welcome challenge for even the most experienced keepers. In nature they feed mainly on lizards, other snakes, and small amphibians. In captivity they often need to be conditioned into taking rodents as a food source. Perhaps they failed to evolve a genetic drive toward rodents based on environmental pressures. Whatever the reason, there are several tricks of the trade to convert captive hatchlings to taking newborn mice. These include washing the "rodent scent" off, scenting rodent feeders with lizard scent in a progressively decreasing manner, misting the cage, and "braining." This last technique requires extracting some of the brain tissue of the feeder mouse and using it to scent the mouse itself. It may be that rodent brain tissue shares some common element with lizard skin proteins, and this can be used to mimic their native food source until conversion occurs. Once this is achieved Zonatas can be maintained on a purely rodent diet and become a prized addition to any collection.